I'm well over halfway through my Canadian adventure now. In fact, I now only have 3 weeks left here before I depart for Alaska. Anyway, the updates continue, so here's what's been going on this week.
Why are we reversing?
I spent much of Saturday being lazy, which was delightful - although I'd forgotten about how much time I lose hopping through links on Wikipedia when I have nothing better to do... Finally, around 6pm I left the fairly quiet city of Hamilton and hopped back on a bus to Toronto. Not because I was planning on staying in Toronto but because I had to get on a train.
Ah yes, the train. The evening's joys began with the guy in front of me at the ticket counter/check in desk, who completely flipped out at the clerk because he missed his train. Never mind the fact that he'd clearly turned up just as the train was leaving, he was adamant the clerk had made him miss his train. She called security while I tried not to smirk.
And then I had even more time to kill so went in search of food. Easier said than done because there was a carnival on in the afternoon and every single food place was heaving. Apart from Quiznos, so I ended up trying out their subs. Not bad.
At last and surprisingly on time, the train left Toronto at 10pm. I'm figuring I'll probably not sleep great (because I never do in transit) so settle for watching the scenery go by. Which is why I got very confused when about 30 minutes out of the station the train started reversing... for nearly 15 minutes. So confused (nearly as confused as I was just now when my tablet stopped picking up my keyboard properly...)
SWIMMING MOOSE
Anyway, we must have ended up going the right way in the end. I slept... not well, but a lot better than I expected. The morning was something of a non-event, given that I was stuck on a train (and would be for another 24 hours), but I did see some beautiful scenery and I'm pretty sure I saw a moose swimming. Here is the photo evidence.
Yes, it's appalling, but I was on a train and half asleep and the moose (or whatever it was) was swimming. I think I might also have seen some beaver dams, but they could have been just piles of stuff in streams for all I know. Sleep deprivation is not great for these things.
I spent much of my second day on the train gazing out of the window and reading. The train has a car with a panoramic dome on top, which was pretty cool for getting shots like this.
And I did at least get the chance to get off the train for a few minutes when we stopped at Hornepayne. Grabbed a few pictures of the locomotives and the train.
Big ass train. Not as big as the 125 car freighter that went past us while we were still at Hornepayne.
I was also pleased to discover that the snack bar had a decent selection of tea. In my sleep deprived fog I was so grateful for a cup of reasonable Darjeeling, it was ridiculous. And then I made another attempt at sleeping. This might have been sunset...
Caffiene. I need caffiene.
Or it might have been sunrise as we approached Winnipeg at an ungodly hour of the morning. I stumbled out of the station around 8am to find that August 1st is a public holiday and the bus I had planned on taking to my hostel wasn't running. I managed to locate a Starbucks though and pilfered the free WiFi for walking directions, backed up by the friendly coppers who mentioned that they'd never been in said hostel and that I should take that as a good thing. Nice guys.
At any rate, I made it to the hostel about 10am, having drunk an enormous cuppa in Starbucks and promptly gave up on any vague plans I had to make use of my day. Two nights on a train hadn't done anything for my energy levels, so I spent the day curled up reading. I felt somewhat more justified in my lethargy when a huge thunderstorm erupted over the city later in the day and carried on into the evening. I'm pretty sure The Storm which followed us around New Zealand a couple of years ago has caught up with me.
I'm on a boat! Again!
I spent the following day exploring the Manitoba Museum. A little bit dated in places, but more than made up for with some very awesome exhibits. Things like having a ship in the museum.
That is the Nonsuch, built in Appledore, Devon and then shipped across to Canada to commemorate one of the Hudson Bay Company's anniversaries. Mostly I just liked imagining it being filled with pirates even though that wasn't really its purpose. Overactive imagination strikes again.
There's also some very cool fossils and a great bit of geekery in the form of a section through the K-Pg boundary. This is the layer of rock which marks where the Cretaceous period ended and the Paleogene began. In itself, that doesn't sound very interesting and neither does the fact that the layer is rich in iridium. But consider that iridium is rare in the Earth's crust, which indicates an extraterrestrial origin, and it starts being more important. Rambling aside, the K-Pg boundary marks the impact of the asteroid (or possibly comet) that is generally accepted to have triggered the extinction of the dinosaurs. I got way too much joy from this tiny little brown band.
I also went in the planetarium, which was suitably trippy and made my head go funny. I fixed this by going in the science gallery next door and embracing my inner child. Interactive joy! Really silly things like making a very short stop motion film using a plastic dimetrodon and elephant. Well, I'm pretty sure it was a dimetrodon. I had one when I was little...
And then I found a great river bed model where you could position dams and trees to see how it affected the flow. Suffice to say I spent too much time playing with it and it was a good job there weren't any kids around. Especially when I got bored of doing the proper investigative stuff and decided to see how long it would take to overtop the dams. So I dammed both streams and waited and then had great joy in taking the dams out and watching the resulting flood.
I should have filmed it. My inner child was so happy.
And then I spent the evening chatting with one of the guys at the hostel. See, my social skills have definitely improved. I can hold a conversation with strangers now. Hostels are good for that.
So.Much.Food.
My final full day in Winnipeg I decided to check out the Forks, which was recommended by Renee who very kindly took me for Thai when I was in Hamilton. The Forks is a little area down behind the train station where the Red and Assiniboine Rivers meet.
[IMAGE]
There's some cool little shops and a whole variety of eating places. Much as I was tempted by the delicious smells coming from some of the international stalls, I eventually settled on the Original Pancake House. Seriously, I found it hard to resist the promise of bacon and maple syrup and pancakes. This is what I ended up having for lunch.
Two pancakes, two rashers of bacon, two beautifully done fried eggs, 2 rounds of toast and a heap of hash browns (fried potatoes). Plus, of course, maple syrup and whipped butter. I surprised myself by eating it all and then had to make sure I walked around for a good while afterwards to work some of it off. That wasn't too hard - there's a lovely park in the Forks.
Satisfied that I'd at least started to burn off my carb/sugar/fat laden lunch, I settled down on a bench and read for a while. I've started enjoying this - just finding a quiet place to sit and read and watch the world go by. Very relaxing.
I would have walked up to Assiniboine Park after that but as soon as I got out of the shade it was way too warm and even more so by the time I'd got back to the hostel. I planned instead to head out later on and visit the Museum of Human Rights, since it would've been free that evening.
I ended up curling up with my book again and having random conversations with fellow hostellers. At about 7pm I tried to convince myself to move. It's a good job I failed, because not long after The Storm made a reappearance. Insane lightning storm carried on until after I'd gone to bed. So glad I didn't go out.
Tea Turbulence
Thursday morning I managed to drag myself out of bed at a respectable hour, make some sandwiches, pack my bag, empty the last of my box of 80 tea bags into my emergency tea tin and make it down to the station with nearly 2 hours until my train.
I needn't have worried so much about getting to the station in plenty of time. The train was in the station when I arrived, but we didn't leave until about half an hour after the scheduled departure. Not that I'm complaining - it could stay late for all I cared, given that it was due into Edmonton at 6:22am the next morning. Too early.
On and on, went the train. I had to turn my music up louder because the guy behind me was total looney tunes. Not a term I use often, but he really was. Kept rambling at the woman across from him about god and the devil and demons and how money is the root of evil. If it had been coherent, it might have been interesting. As it was, it was making me uncomfortable.
I rectified said discomfort with loud music (In This Moment is excellent for this) and a surprisingly reasonably priced cup of Darjeeling. Yum. Unfortunately about 10 minutes after I sat down with my cuppa, it leapt off its seat on the windowsill and launched itself at me. I have an ouchy knee as a result, but at least the lid kept most of the tea in the cup. Still, I dislike that I managed to lose tea.
My otherwise boring day was interrupted by the arrival of a couple of kids in my personal space. I have no idea why they decided to talk to me and anyone who knows me can tell you I'm not great with children, but I ended up spending most of the evening with them and their mum playing Uno of all things. A very pleasant surprise.
Oh, and I also saw some bison. No photos though - I was busy trying to remember how to play Uno!
The bus takes how long?!
After an almost comfortable night's sleep, I woke to the news that the train was running 2 and a half hours late due to all the freight traffic we'd encountered. No worries - I figured that meant more chance of finding an open Tim Horton's/Starbucks to filch free Wi-Fi from.
As it is, I found that Edmonton's train station is quite a long way out of the city centre, unlike Toronto and Winnipeg, and although there were public transport options available, they would have taken at least an hour so I ended up taking a cab to the hostel which took about 20 minutes. This is the first time I've taken a cab on my own. I was very proud of myself.
So now I'm planning on spending my day doing some more reading, replenishing my groceries and planning the US leg of the trip because, jeez, that's loomed up all of a sudden! I then have another 3 days to explore Edmonton before I get back on the train one last time to head for Vancouver.
Rocky Mountain scenery, here I come.
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