"Mother of all storms"

So behind with the blogging, so anyone who follows this: be prepared for a massive influx of posts. We've just got reasonable net for the first time in over a week.

First, I should mention Mount Hercules. It's not that big, but the road up it is very windy and absolutely terrifying in the dark. Claire and I had many squeaks going up it on the way from Greymouth to Franz Josef. It wasn't helped by the massive flashes of lightning in the distance.

Sleep that night was interrupted by the mother of all storms. Lightning right outside the room, the loudest thunder I've ever heard and rain which just would not stop. All night. Take note of this - the damn thing turns up again.

Our morning in Franz Josef began with the news that the Haast Pass was closed. This is an issue because we planned to go through the pass to get to Queenstown. The alternative route would take up to 12 hours and involve going over Arthurs Pass. For which there were strong wind warnings of the "gusts upwards of 100kmh" variety. Yeep.

It was also still pissing down. So we headed for the West Coast Wildlife Centre which was fortunately right next to the hostel. It's home to a pair of Rowi, the most endangered species of Kiwi. We named them Tim and Jared and spent far too long watching them snuffling around in their dark enclosure. It was awesome.

Then, a quick call to the guides at Fox Glacier to make sure the trip was still going ahead. Which it was. So we drove down there, trying to ignore the workers at the side of the road clearing up a landslide. Eep. Arriving in Fox Glacier township, we were told that the trip had been changed again because the river was ridiculously high. $20 refund - yay.

The trip itself was amazing, if a bit wet. A lovely walk up to a lookout above the glacier, past the barriers where everyone else has to stop. Spent ages watching the glacier, which was brilliant because it actually broke a few chunks off while we were there. It is the most amazing sound.

After the glacier trip we headed back for another night at Franz Josef, stopping at Franz Josef glacier on the way. Claire and I caught a brief glimpse as we drove up, but the cloud had settled in the valley by the time we got to the car park, so we have no photos. Shame.

And then... more rain and planning for the possible 12 hour detour to avoid the Haast Pass. Oh dear...