Showing posts with label Yorkshire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yorkshire. Show all posts

Wednesday, 20 April 2016

The Joy of Trains

If you're a Brit like me, you'll know how we love to knock train travel. It's expensive, slow and doesn't run as often as we'd like. Not to mention the delays.

But look at it another way. You could drive, but that means you doing the work. You have to focus on the road and mostly miss the views. Sure, it might be cheaper and you'll almost certainly get there quicker, but isn't the journey part of the fun?

Sometimes it's good to just slow down and take the long way round for a change. Train lines cross some of the wildest, most beautiful parts of the world. I get to see this view every time I take the train to Manchester (weather dependent) because the route goes through the always beautiful Hope Valley.

From seeing New Forest ponies on the train to Bournemouth to crossing mountains in New Zealand, you see so much more when you take a train instead. And when it all goes wrong and the train gets delayed or you're stranded at a station (looking at you, Sheffield, with you shit signals), that's all just another part of the adventure, right?

So, in recognition of how lovely a train journey can be (discounting the Tube, because I’m never going to like the Tube), here are some of the most scenic railways from around the world.

1. North Yorkshire Moors Railway, UK

I love the Yorkshire Moors. It’s a beautiful area and if you don’t fancy taking a stroll along any of the numerous tracks, you can sit back and enjoy the view from the iconic North York Moors Railway. Pulled by both steam and diesel locomotives (great when your dad’s a bit into his trains and obviously not because I quite like steam trains too…), this line runs through the valleys from Pickering on the southern edge of the moors to Whitby on the coast to the north. For added pop culture value, you can hop off the train at Goathland, the setting for the Heartbeat’s Aidensfield and make sure to check out the station itself – Harry Potter fans might recognise it as Hogsmeade station from the films.



If you don’t fancy the train, there’s a path which follows the line at least between Grosmont and Goathland with parking at both ends, though Grosmont tends to be less busy.


2. TranzAlpine, New Zealand

The Southern Alps, spanning the length of New Zealand’s South Island, are crossed by only 3 passes. Now, you could hire a car and drive one of them, but in winter especially the roads can be closed for hours and days. Why not take the train instead? Sit back, relax and enjoy the view. The TranzAlpine is clearly a tourist train, not aimed at locals travelling between east and west, but don’t let that put you off. There’s huge windows in the coaches, audio commentary at various points and the train goes at the right sort of speed for you to take photos and really take in the view.



Plus, let’s not forget the wonderful open-air car. Who wouldn’t want to get “bitch-slapped by nature” in New Zealand?


3. Indian Pacific, Australia

Australia is vast. Something you don’t always realise from looking at maps. But it’s huge. Really fucking huge. Getting from east to west can take ages. Now, you could hop on a flight and the views are pretty good, although for great flight views in Oz I’d recommend the Alice Springs-Adelaide route because oh my god, Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is beautiful from above.

But for getting across from Sydney to Perth, I’m going to try the train. Well, at least from Adelaide to Perth. The Indian Pacific cuts in an almost straight line right across the desert and scrublands of Nullarbor. It takes three days to make the trip and sounds like a great way of kicking back for a few days. Sure, I could take a flight and be in Perth in a few hours, but it’s the experience that counts, right? Besides, I’ve never taken an overnight train before. New adventures ahoy!


4. Cusco-Aguas Calientes, Peru

Machu Picchu is something of a Peruvian must-do, but how to get there? The nearest big town is Cusco, nestled in the mountains a few hours away. The nearest settlement to the ruins themselves is Aguas Calientes, a 5 mile drive away. I don’t drive, so the options are limited to bus or train. Bus is cheaper. Train is prettier and probably more comfortable. Train it is, then.

PeruRail run three different trains from just outside Cusco, varying in luxury, but all take the same route through the valley, winding alongside the river before reaching Aguas Calientes, the end of the line and jumping off point for a shuttle bus to Machu Picchu. There’s also the option of stopping at Ollantaytambo, which looks like a beautiful little town and well worth exploring.


5. Transpennine, UK

Probably the only one on this list that’s not aimed at tourists. The Transpennine runs between the east and west coasts of the UK from various stations. It’s also the train I take most often since it runs from my hometown to Manchester, where my mum lives. You’d think a journey you make often would get boring, but it’s such a scenic route that I always end up spotting new things. The line is at its best on the stretch between Sheffield and Manchester where it climbs up into the Peak District National Park, winding through the Hope Valley. You could hope off here at Hope, Edale or Hathersage and go walking – some gorgeous tracks up here. From the train you can also see Mam Tor, overlooking the valley.


As one final point, I wrote a big chunk of this while I was on the train to Manchester. Wouldn't have been able to do that in a car - I'd have got travel sick.

Do you enjoy train travel? Been on any rickety old rails? Why not share in the comments below?

Friday, 25 March 2016

100 Days, 100 Things: Days 1-20

Well, we're well into the final 100 days until I finish work. My last day will be June 10th and my flight out to Iceland will be the following Monday 13th. I figured I should do something to mark this last 100, so I set out to note down something new or interesting or funny each day. Here's the first 20.

1. Saturday 5th March – met a new dachshund called Franklin
Took a stroll around Heaton Park in Manchester with my mum, sister, mum's 2 dachshunds and a fellow owner and her little dachshund. Great fun for all involved.

2. Sunday 6th March – tried Vietnamese food (yum)
Took my mum for Mother's Day lunch at Pho in the old Corn Exchange in Manchester. Turns out Vietnamese (or its Westernised equivalent) is super tasty and tofu turns out to be yummy if it's seasoned properly.

Phở chay (tofu and mushroom), Pho, Manchester


3. Monday 7th March – worked out where the error was in a formula I’d been trying to fix for ages
I'm considered the Excel whizz in my team at work, so it was a relief to finally work out where I'd been going wrong with some conditional formatting a colleague had asked me to apply to one of his spreadsheets. Should have spotted it sooner though!

4. Tuesday 8th March – best typing speed test yet – 80WPM, 400CPM
I've been trying to improve my typing speed for a while, especially since I'm planning on doing Camp NaNoWriMo in April. Apparently 80 words per minute is quite a bit quicker than a lot of people, so I'm pretty proud of that.

5. Wednesday 9th March – tried Nilgiri tea for the first time (yum)
My mum visited India in November and brought me back some loose leaf tea to add to my collection. I finally got round to trying the Nilgiri and it's amazing - almost sweet, sort of fruity.

6. Thursday 10th March – finally named some very annoying characters in Raising the Sun. No more [DAMIEN] lord of brackets.
Raising the Sun is an ongoing writing project of mine. Half the characters in it still have placeholder names (identified by the [] square brackets) while I work out what they should be called. The character formerly known as [DAMIEN] has been bugging me for ages.

7. Friday 11th March – tried the Gallery restaurant. Delicious sausage and mash.
The Gallery is the in-house training restaurant at the college where I work. The students do the cooking and the serving and it'd been a while since I visited it. Suffice to say the sausage and mash was delicious and great value at £3.50...

8. Saturday 12th March – read Snuff in a day. Go me.
Today marked the first anniversary of the death of the great Sir Terry Pratchett. He was and is one of my favourite authors so I took the opportunity to finally read Snuff, a book that my best friend loaned me nearly 3 years ago. And then ploughed through it in a single day. The last time I did that was when I re-read The Hobbit a few years back...

9. Sunday 13th March – visited Robin Hood’s Bay and Whitby
Took a trip up to the beautiful North Yorkshire coast, which I already wrote about HERE.

View of the beach and cliffs at Robin Hood's Bay, North Yorkshire


10. Monday 14th March – almost successfully taught my boss to use lookups in Excel
My manager is trying to get the hang of Excel before I leave. We're getting there, slowly.

11. Tuesday 15th March – worked out how to renew an EHIC. By sorting out Grandad’s
I should probably sort out my own European Health Insurance Card, not just my grandad's. Turns out to be a pretty simple process though. Hurrah.

12. Wednesday 16th March – something to do with the quiz and the French visitors…
Went to the monthly staff quiz at work. Had a bit of a weird England v France thing - quiz regulars versus some French visitors. Great fun and a brilliant discussion afterwards about different sayings in English and French. Brilliant stuff.

13. Thursday 17th March – finished my guide to Excel
I've been writing a guide to Excel, being the team Excel whizz and all that. Finally got it just about finished. Just got to see if anyone understands it now...

14. Friday 18th March – made a delicious chilli cheese toast/fried egg combination for breakfast
Decided to go a step up from my normal buttered crumpets and made some delicious chilli cheese toast with a spiced fried egg on top for breakfast. I was aiming for a flavour like the yummy kejriwal I had at Dishoom in London. Not bad for a first attempt.

15. Saturday 19th March – took the dogs on their first boat trip
On the first full day of a long weekend in the Lake District with my mum and sister, we took a boat trip on Windermere. With the sausage dogs. I'm not sure they enjoyed it, but they behaved themselves.

A pair of sausage dogs/dachshunds on a boat


16. Sunday 20th March – tried and mostly failed to use my CPL properly
I bought myself some basic filters and lenses just after Christmas and I've been trying to get the hang of them. Decided to test out my polariser. Didn't quite succeed. Needs more practice.

View of Ambleside across Windermere


17. Monday 21st March – tried Mojito marmalade. It is amazing.
The Hawkshead Relish Company make the most delicious preserves. They even do an cocktail inspired range, including the aforementioned Mojito marmalade. So. Much. Yum.

18. Tuesday 22nd March – successfully got past the chapter of LotR where I got bogged down last year
Like the sad sod that I am, I re-read (or attempt) The Lord of the Rings every year. Last year I got bogged down in the second half of Two Towers because Frodo started pissing me off, but this year I powered on through. Well into Return of the King now. The end is in sight!

19. Wednesday 23rd March – managed to get an ID type photo that doesn’t look like I’m going to murder someone. Woo.
The director of my department at work decided we needed to get our photos taken to put on the wall so visitors know who we all are. By sheer fluke I've ended up with an ID type photo that actually looks sort of normal. This is in contrast to every single ID card I've ever had where I variously look like I want to murder the photographer or stoned or so very pale that I blend in with the background. Hurrah.

20. Thursday 24th March - 83WPM, 414CPM
Because I'm not in the least bit obsessed with improving my typing speed...


20 days down. 80 to go... what other stupid, mundane and sometimes exciting things can I do in that time?

Wednesday, 16 March 2016

Fish & Chips & Dracula: A Day Out in North Yorkshire

North Yorkshire is a lovely area. Desolate, rolling moorlands come down to steep cliffs on the North Sea coast. Took a trip up there recently with my dad and sister and thought I'd share some of the pretty bits.

First up, the lovely little village of Robin Hood's Bay, on the coast between the seaside towns of Scarborough and Whitby. Quaint place - all narrow streets and old fishing cottages.



I should probably note that this trip was in March and the weather was fine but chilly so I was surprised by how many people were out on the beach.



No one seems all that sure why it's called Robin Hood's Bay. It doesn't seem to come up in any of the early Robin Hood tales, but it's had the name since at least the 1500s, so who knows!

Well worth a stop if you're driving up the coast road between Scarborough and Whitby if only to feel like you've stepped back a century or so. For those thinking of staying more than the hour we did, there's the tiny little Dinosaur & Fossil Museum, which I am informed by my dad that I have been in, many moons ago. There's also a whole host of pubs and cafes, all of which seemed pretty busy given how early in the season it was.

Getting there: 5 miles south of Whitby/15 miles north of Scarborough off the A171 coast road. Parking is at the top of the hill in the village. Be prepared for the walk to the bottom of the cliff and back - it's quite steep in places.


From there, we headed north along the coast road to Whitby in search of lunch. It being Whitby, lunch sort of had to be fish and chips. There's plenty of chip shops to choose from in the town, but for someone from Grimsby who's used to fish & chips being relatively cheap, the prices can be a bit steep. Not that most others would notice, I'm sure.


Anyhoo, we settled on Russells, which does very nice chips and then went for a wander. Whitby, like Robin Hood's Bay, has little narrow streets but doesn't have quite the same feel. It's much more touristy. Not a bad thing - there's some really nice shops around the eastern bank of the river.



For a real history kick, climb the 199 steps from the base of the cliff up to the Abbey. The Abbey's pretty important in the history of Christianity in England and I'd really recommend going in and having a look. Sometimes there's reenactment groups in, which are great fun. Vikings running around? Oh yeah.



On this occasion, we bypassed the Abbey and had fun trying to read some of the old gravestones in the churchyard next door. We especially liked the Latin inscription on this memorial, which translates as Death is Inevitable.



Which brings me almost neatly onto Whitby's other claim to fame. It features quite prominently in Bram Stoker's classic gothic novel Dracula as the port through which the eponymous vampire enters England. Whitby has embraced this and if you're in town on the right weekend you can enjoy the peoplewatching that comes with Goth Weekend.



Getting there: Whitby is easily reached from the A171. The area around the harbour can get a bit short on parking at the weekend, especially over the summer. There's more parking at the top of the cliff near the Abbey.

If you're heading south from Whitby and you've already driven the coast road, I'd recommend heading over the top of the moors on your way back. It's a beautiful scenic drive, with plenty of opportunities to stop or turn off and explore the valleys. Just don't go trespassing into Fylingdales base - don't think the Americans would be too happy about that.

Also, if you head over the moors and you're that way inclined, the North Yorkshire Moors Railway is pretty good fun and there's a really nice walk between the stations at Goathland and Grosmont.

Have you got any recommendations for places to see on the North Yorkshire coast? Why not share in the comments.

Wednesday, 13 January 2016

Wonderful Walks: Afternoon Strolls & Epic Tramps

It's my dad's birthday today. He does a lot of walking and this summer, just before I leave for the Grand Tour, he's taking on the Three Peaks Challenge. So I got thinking about which walks I love and which walks I'd love to try. Here's a few.

Tried & Tested

For which read: I, my dad or someone else I know and trust has walked it and liked it. As such, these are mostly in the UK. Naught wrong with loving your home country!

Viking Way, Lincolnshire & Rutland

I'd have liked to have picked just one part of this long-distance footpath which runs from Barton-upon-Humber in the north to Oakham in the south, but there's just too many nice bits. Try out the northern end for a nice stroll from the Humber bank or head a bit further south to the extent of my Viking Way experience and take a ramble through the rural Lincolnshire villages of Donington-on-Bain, Goulceby and Scamblesby. My favourite part though is the tramp over the hill between Walesby and Tealby - you can see for miles from up there and you might even catch sight of some Lincolnshire Long Wool sheep. Funny critters.

Lincolnshire long wool sheep in a field


Snowdon, Gwynedd

The highest peak in Wales (and second highest in the UK) and yet a surprisingly easy climb. Now, you could cheat and take the train either up or down, but where's the fun in that? I'm told the easiest climb is the one I took with my family a few years back and that starts in the little town of Llanberis. From here the path follows the railway most of the way to the top. Be warned, the first section up out of the town is possibly the steepest! Don't let it put you off. You'll be rewarded with amazing views, providing the weather holds out.

Valley under clouds seen from Snowdon


Be aware that, as with most mountainous areas, the weather up Snowdon can change quickly. Be prepared.

Flamborough Head, Yorkshire

This headland sticks out into the North Sea and as such can get a bit wild, but catch it on a good day and it makes for a beautiful walk. Start at any car park and just go for a stroll. It's very hard to get lost - just follow the cliff edge round!

Two people walking a cliff path


If the tide is out, head down to the beach at North Landing and do some exploring. It's a long time since I went down there, but I'm pretty sure there's a couple of small caves. Just be careful and don't go getting cut off by the tide.

Lyke Wake Walk, Yorkshire

Enjoyment isn't necessarily a factor in this challenging walk. While the others above can be done in any timescale, this 40 mile tramp across the North Yorkshire Moors must be completed in 24 hours to really count. My sister managed it with a group from school a few years ago and while she was tired and aching by the time she finished, I'm sure she was pretty proud of herself for managing it.

Uluru Base Walk, Northern Territory, Australia

Uluru (also: Ayers Rock) is a magical place. A huge lump of rock rearing out of the desert, cast in beautiful light by the setting sun...

Sunset over Uluru (Ayers Rock)


Yeah, so we know Uluru is awesome and you should see it yourself. If you do, don't just stick around for sunset/sunrise. Take a walk around the base to get a better grasp of just how special the area is. It's sacred to the traditional owners, the Anangu and every nook and cranny of this massive rock is rich with stories from the Dreamtime. I'd suggest going with a guide to make the most of the myths - there are, if I recall, some info boards, but a guide will go into so much more detail.

Walker at Uluru


Just be aware that it gets very hot in Australia's Red Centre. Temperatures regularly hit the high 30s (Celsius, not Fahrenheit) and it's very dry. Take plenty of water and wear a hat.


Daydreams

For which read: long tramps in (mostly) foreign climes that I haven't done.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand

When I found out Dad was going to do the Three Peaks Challenge, I decided I needed to do some sort of challenge walk while on my Grand Tour around the world. Now, I enjoy walking, but I'm a bit out of practice so I'm not about to leap into the Inca Trail. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, on the other hand, is a one day tramp across New Zealand's Tongariro National Park and is about 12 miles in total. Of course, it's up and down over weird volcanic landscapes, but I figure I could do that. Just have to hope that the weather is better than when I first visited Tongariro...

Taranaki Falls in the rain with two walkers



Overland Track, Tasmania, Australia

One of Australia's great walks, this trail winds through Tasmania's western wilderness, from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair. Here's Cradle Mountain, hiding in the cloud.

Dove Lake with Cradle Mountain in clouds


Of course, that was in winter and the track is most popular in the summer when the weather's a bit better. That said, I've seen how quickly the weather changes in Tasmania and I wouldn't trust it to stay nice. I'm considering doing it though - Tasmania's such a beautiful place and this seems like a great way to do a bit more exploring.

Three Peaks Challenge, UK

This exists in a few forms in the UK. There's the National Three Peaks, where walkers climb the three highest mountains in the country - Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon. The challenge here is to walk it (including transport between the mountains) in 24 hours. Sounds like a spoiled walk to me.

There's also the Yorkshire Three Peaks, which includes roughly the same distance walking, but less climbing and takes in the mountains of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent in the Yorkshire Dales. The challenge is to complete it in 12 hours. This is the one my dad's going to do in the summer and I'm sure it'll be fantastic.

However, I'm rather inclined to agree with the great Alfred Wainwright:
Some people have chosen to regard the walk as a race, and this is to be greatly regretted. Walking is a pleasure to be enjoyed in comfort
Looks like a really nice walk, though. I'll have to try it myself one day.

Appalachian Trail, USA

Perhaps the queen of long distance tramps and certainly one of the best known, this trail runs from Maine all the way to Georgia, a total of about 2,200 miles. I can't begin to imagine the challenge of walking this all in one go but it's been done and must rank as one of the ultimate walking challenges. As for me, I wouldn't mind trying out a few sections. After all, it looks to pass through some really beautiful country.

Inca Trail, Peru

Famous for leading to the magnificent ruins of Machu Picchu in the Peruvian Andes, the Inca Trail runs through beautiful wilderness and in places follows the original Inca routes through the mountains and forests. It's incredibly popular, so numbers are limited to protect the track. I'd really like to do this one day, but I think for now I'll settle for just seeing Machu Picchu. I don't fancy the idea of getting partway down the trail and falling ill with altitude sickness. Much better to have that happen when I'm nearer civilisation. Say, Cuzco?

So, there's a few options there - shorter walks in the UK to multi-day hikes across the world. I'd love to know if any of my readers has done any of the longer treks!

Where are your favourite hiking destinations? Do you dream of undertaking one of the world's great walks or have you already done it? Share in the comments below.